Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Somewhat wearable muslin jacket

In my quest for the perfect jacket pattern, I tried out Burdastyle's One Button Blazer, thinking the clean lines and relaxed fit could be really nice. I like the idea of a blazer that makes a simple outfit just a little more dressed, but is still very comfy. After my rushed make involving many wrong turns, let's just say this is a wearable muslin for a future version of this pattern. It is nice in principle. Exhibit A: when I don't move too much, have just ironed it, and roll up the sleeves, it looks totally acceptable. Maybe.

My first mistake: this cotton sateen, while a lovely colour and sheen, is too lightweight for this style of blazer. Also, it crinkles like hell and falls awkwardly when I move, like so:

Second, major mistake: I did not look carefully enough at the line drawing or at the finished measurements of the pattern pieces, especially the sleeves. Those upper sleeves could fit about five of my arms. Of course, I tried taking in the sleeves only after I had already tired myself out trying to ease the giant sleeve heads into the arm scyes. It was just too much to ask taking them out and stretching the fabric even more. No picture of this my friends, this is a lesson I will learn all on my own. Again, I could have known, looking at those pictures...

Third mistake: laziness with finishing and lining. This jacket is  partially lined. This was my first time with this style of lining, and I must say I really like it. I serged the edges of the lining and the exposed seams as well. I tell myself this is an edgy look, when really, something nicer like hong-kong seams are the way to go of course. Also, polyester lining in a summer jacket: never again. Just wearing it here for photos when it's almost October made me feel much too sticky for comfort.

On a positive note, the longline, narrow collar is flattering, and despite the impossible instructions, the collar construction has some cool details. I learned a lot, and I'm pretty chuffed with my topstiching. Too bad no-one gets to see it back there.

Also, I am about ten times better at double welt pockets than I was when I started out. Only minor gaping! Hope I can pull this of on my imaginary 'final' version of this jacket! Maybe on that one I'll even bother to sew on a button.


  1. Your welt pockets look so good! I actually like the crinkly look in that jacket. I have an unwearable muslin for another Burda blazer pattern It is sitting on my ironing board forlorn as I don't have the motivation to finish it after all the issues with it :(

    1. Thanks, I hope at least you'll be able to tweak the pattern to your liking after all that work! It sucks when that happens! I usually turn to a quick fix with a tried and true pattern after a dud like that. I have yet to find a blazer pattern that fits out of the envelope, turning to 1960s patterns now...we'll see.

  2. I really like this jacket! I think the exposed seams are actually really cool and the double welt pockets (I'd never actually heard of them before!) look perfect to my untrained eye!

    1. Ha, see! I knew it, totally a design feature those seams. Yeah the welt pockets...they took up about, oh, 2/5 of the time spent making this. So fidgety, thanks so much for the encouragement!


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